Wine aficionados regularly sip the products of a Cabernet, Pinot Noir, or Chardonnay grape, but what about the fruits of an Albania, Lenoir, Wetumka, or Starkstar? Today’s most familiar and famous wines derive from Europe’s ancient grape varieties, but America has a rich diversity of indigenous—and far lesser-known—grapes of its own beyond the familiar Vitis labrusca Concord.
